Thursday, November 14, 2013

Nepal - The Final Days 2

Durbar Square & Area
Today we left early to explore Kathmandu's Durbar Square.  It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 and since we had visited 3 other heritage sites in the Valley.....
Durbar means palace and this was traditionally the place where the city's kings were crowned and from where they ruled.
The whole area around the square is a warren of narrow streets and alleys, teeming with people and bordered with microscopic shops, itinerant merchants and sellers of all kinds.  Almost anything under the sun can be purchased here.  Anything, from flowers to clothes, veggies, fungi ...  This seems to an area where Nepalis come to shop.  It was a busy, colorful, vibrant place, marred somewhat by the incessant honking of motorbike horns as they insisted on clear passage through the crowds.
Durbar Square itself is only slightly more peaceful.  As you walk, you are constantly besieged by rickshaw drivers, taxi drivers, bead salesmen, prospective guides offering their services and trinket salesmen.  The only thing to do is keep shaking your head and keep walking.  After awhile you learn to never engage these people in conversation.  As an example, one particularly persistent fellow had a carved elephant.  Actually it was a group of 7.  He started off with 2500 Rs.  By the time we had walked 50 meters he was down to 1000 Rs.  "Lucky for you, lucky for me...". No is not a possible outcome in their minds.
The collection of temples to various deities varies in age but most date from the 17th to 18th century or older.  Intricate old wood carvings of so-and-so killing this or that demon.  An old throne or two used when Nepal had a monarchy.  Very ornate, very old.  Many shrines where people worship and make offerings.  Bells which are rung to alert the deity that an offering has been made.  Like the streets elsewhere, it's a cacophony of sounds and, often, smells.
It's hard to imagine how a place this chaotic works, but it seems to.  It certainly makes your average farmer's market pale by comparison.
We have passes to the square area so we will probably be back to take advantage of different light conditions.

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