Reflections on Trekking in Nepal's Mustang Region

Over two different trips, I've hiked for a total of about 6 weeks in Nepal.

In 2013, a group of 10 of us hiked for 3 weeks around the Manaslu range and most of the Annapurna range.

Three years later, two of us hiked into the Annapurna sanctuary as far as Annapurna Base Camp.  We then followed that trip with another into the Mustang region of the country.  The latter involved about 160 km of hiking through some very challenging terrain, most of it above 3000 m.

For years, the Nepali government kept the Mustang region closed to foreigners.  This may have had something to do with the political situation in Tibet.  In any case, starting in the mid-1990s, foreign trekkers were allowed in, with restrictions.

First, the number of trekkers each year is limited.  Nothing like the crowds you can see on some other routes.

Second, trekking permit fees are substantially higher than on other routes.  In 2016, for example, a permit cost US$ 50 per person per day.

Third, all trekkers must be guided.  This isn't really a big expense, after all, this in Nepal.  Our guide costs about $25/day and a porter costs about $10/day.  

The scenery is fantastic.  Very stark, very dry, quite windy most afternoons.  Places with lodges are generally small and pretty rough.  It's cold when the sun isn't above the mountains.  Views are compelling in all directions.  The food is basic and there isn't any warm place to go other than in your sleeping bag.

I'd recommend the region for the scenery.  Also for the physical challenge.  There is a great deal of up and down, often on rough tracks.  Not sure if I'd recommend the area for any other reasons.  We've decided that most of the "villages" look better from a distance than they do up close.  Once you've done your hiking for the day and had your meals, there is little reason to wander around and the cold will often force you into your bed.