The Last Forbidden Kingdom - Trekking in Nepal's Mustang Region I

In about the middle of Nepal, sticking up to the north into Tibet, is a remote region called Mustang (pronounced locally as Moo-stung).  When Nepal opened to foreigners, Mustang remained closed and until 1992, very few outsiders were allowed in.

Even now, there are restrictions placed on those who wish to visit the region.  Permits are required and they're significantly more expensive than those needed for other trekking routes.  You also must be guided.  The round trip from Jomsom to Lo Manthang and back is about 160 km, which would normally be done in about 10 days.

Three years ago, we could see the beginnings of the Mustang region as we descended from the 5400 m Thorung La after we completed our Manaslu - Annapurna trek.  We looked down on Kagbeni for awhile as we made our way from  Muktinath to Jomsom.  It looked enticing and was the seed that grew into this trip.

Our view of Kagbeni back in November 2013

Coming off the Annapurna Sanctuary trek yesterday, we had a few hours to spend in Pokhara.  For the 15 minute flight to Jomsom, we were expected to be at the airport by 5:15 am.  By 5:30 am, people actually arrived to open the airport, our guide dealt with the tickets and at 6:25 am, we were in the air.

Our flight path took us right over our last night's lodge location at Australian Camp, over Chomrong, right past Poon Hill and Ghorepani.  The route continued up the narrow canyon of the Kali Gandaki to land at Jomsom.

After a quick breakfast, we followed the gravelly road as far as Kagbeni, entrance to the Mustang.  After this, special rules apply.

The pattern, it appears, will be to hike in the morning, get to our destination and then hide in the lodge or wander in the villages to avoid the gale-force winds that tear up this valley every afternoon.

Kagbeni has narrow streets and alleys that are more like twisting tunnels so one can avoid the wind.

The valley is very gravelly and the hillsides are quite barren, rocky and brown/grey.

We have spectacular views south to the 7000 m peak of Nilgiri, with plumes of spindrift coming off the peak. To the north, the mystery of Mustang awaits.

We wander, eat lunch, filter some water and rest.  Later, perhaps, we'll go in search of beer.  All the lodges have WiFi.  Seems to be the new normal and sometimes it works.

The trek continues.

Namaste !  Tashi delek.