Day 2 in Lhasa
A bit of driving today and more walking.
We visited a monastery in the morning and another (the Sera monastery) in the afternoon. Both are within sight of the city. The most interesting part in the Sera monastery, and the reason we went, was to watch the monk debates. (Yeah, I know, there's already a Munk Debates on CBC Radio. This is different).
For two hours, monks are paired off, one standing and the other seated. The standing monk will fire off questions to the other one, who is expected to answer. The questions are philosophical or religious in nature and the process is intended as a learning tool and also to develop debating skills in the young monks. It was quite an animated scene.
After an hour wandering through the market alleys and it was time for a rest before supper.
Tomorrow we go on a 3-day road trip. Up into the mountains with major elevation gain.
Road Trip - Day 1
Today, we leave Lhasa and head southwest on the Friendship Highway, turning off to wind our way to the top of a 4800 m pass where we look down on Yamdrok Lake, one of the larger lakes in Tibet and one with a beautiful turquoise color.
We continue on through fantastic scenery to a second pass, this one at 5000 m. This is the Karo-la. Mountains surround us, some of the higher ones with cornices, snow and icefalls.
Then on to the last pass of the day, at a mere 4500 m. We get out to take in the views and climb some stairs to a viewpoint. Even that minimal effort leaves our legs calling for mercy and our lungs sucking for air. It takes a minute or two before we feel normal.
We arrive in Gyantse which features the Pelkhor Chose monastery, a 9- tiered chorten, which we climb to the top, and the Gyantse Dzong, which is basically a fort on a rocky hill overlooking the town.
Gyantse apparently has had less Chinese influence and comes off as more traditional.
Road Trip - Day 2
About 90 minutes to drive to Shigatse, the second-largest city in Tibet. There was also a 15 minute stop at the police station where the guide had to have our permits stamped and show our passports. Talk about bureaucracy. More about that in another post.
I will say one thing about the cities and towns we've seen so far: the streets are wide, they are mostly clean (although there is plenty of grime and garbage around), and they have been easy to find one's way around.
On the way, we pass many fields of barley being harvested. This is used to make tsampa as well as beer. Many small wagons and tractors on the road.
Our first stop is the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery. It was founded in 1447 but suffered much damage during the Cultural Revolution. On one old mural it was still possible to see traces of Chinese characters that defaced the mural. In more recent years it has been declared a cultural relic and much restoration has taken place. Because of this, it was one of the nicest looking of the monasteries we've seen.
Before supper, Joel and I walked a circuit used by the faithful that circles the monastery. There must be between 6000 to 10000 prayer wheels lining the route, a distance of about 2+ km. I'm guessing here.
We walked through a market which had the usual stuff, trinkets, beads, etc., but with a few tables of yak meat. I have to say the smell didn't encourage me to have a yak steak any time soon.
Road Trip - Day 3
Today nothing but to drive back to Lhasa. It's a distance of less that 300 km, but it takes almost 6 hours. The road is fine but there is traffic, everything from motor scooters, tractors, buses, big trucks, many cars and, to top it off, many checkpoints. In addition, in an inefficient and futile way to control speed, vehicles are given a mandated minimum time between checkpoints. All this means, in practice, is that people drive the speed they want and then just pull over and wait until they're at the right time.
I think the guide had to show our passports 3 times on this drive.
Anyhow, we're back in Lhasa, resting, doing some laundry and getting ready for tomorrow.
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