Kathamndu - More Dusty & Chaotic Than Ever

A Typical Lane Near Thamel

I remember being impressed by the chaos of Kathmandu the last time we were here.  The noise, weaving motorbikes, the cacophony of horns, voices, and the surge of people.  Small cars trying to navigate lanes too narrow for sensible passage.  The smells of dust, incense, garbage.  And yet, despite all that, an almost endlessly fascinating place to wander.

If anything, three years later, the main streets are worse.  Traffic consisting of motorbikes, cars and trucks, backed up for at least a block.  Pedestrians weaving in and out to cross the street.  Non functional traffic lights (no change from three years ago) with intersections being controlled by traffic cops.  Most intersections requiring several cops.

Why would anyone even consider trying to drive.  Walking is enough of a challenge.

On the lanes of Thamel, near our hotel, in the old part of the city (not sure how one defines old here), it is perhaps less busy.  There could be fewer tourists here.  In the aftermath of the earthquake in April 2015, visitors stayed away in droves.  It is, apparently, only now starting to  improve.

It's been a hard time for the business community over the past 18 months.

Rebuilding is ongoing.  We read in the paper that the Boudhanath stupa repairs are completed and that a dedication ceremony will be held on November 22, the day before we start our voyage home.

Some buildings have been torn down.  There is new construction.  Concrete bring mixed.  Parts of streets are being dug up to repair pipes.  And all of it being done by hand.  The largest pieces of equipment I've seen have been shovels and picks.

We leave Kathmandu tomorrow for a few weeks of trekking north of Pokhara and north of Jomsom.  It will be nice to get out into the country for awhile.  First will be 200 km by bus to Pokhara.  I expect that will take most of the day.