We've made two major transitions in the past couple of weeks.
The first happened when we crossed Larke Pass which separated the more remote part of the Manaslu trail from the Annapurna trail. The latter has been developing as a trekker's route for years while the former has been open to trekking only relatively recently. The Manaslu trek still requires special permits and a guide.
Today we crossed the big pass on the Annapurna circuit, the Thorung La. Although the far side of the pass was fairly developed, the valley we descended into as we approached Jomsom is almost like moving into a different part of the century.
There are real power lines carrying power. I saw two tractors. There is free WiFi here and there in town. And the food.... The picture shows a chicken burger. Yes, something with real meat, and it was crispy and good.
So if you're ever passing through Muktinath and want a good meal after visiting the local shrines and monasteries, I'd recommend the Muktinath Hotel, where the image you might have of something from the menu actually resembles reality as we know it.
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