Gridlock in Thamel

Most of our time in KTM has been spent in the neighborhood of Thamel.  This is part of the old city and its streets were laid out well before the era of the motor vehicle.  Where newer streets are at least a few lanes wide, in Thamel, they are often only a narrow lane wide.  This makes them well suited to pedestrian traffic but not to the motor vehicles that now try to use those streets.

Cars keep trying to force their way down these narrow streets, honking incessantly, forcing people walking to the curb, such as it is.  Motorbikes weave in and out adding their horns to the din.

From a pedestrian's perspective, it's annoying and somewhat dangerous.  From a driver's perspective I can't imagine the point of trying to navigate such narrow streets that are so clogged with people, not to mention other vehicles.  Is there a frustration level that could ever be reached that would precipitate a change in behaviour?

If any single vehicle stops, everyone else does too.  There is no other place to go.  We witnessed such a situation yesterday on our way back to our hotel.  It's not exactly like rush hour on the Deerfoot, but one wonders if drivers ever come to the conclusion that a vehicle simply doesn't belong in such a situation and is more trouble than it's worth.

We were being dropped off the other evening and rather than be part of the silliness of a car negotiating Thamel's lanes, we asked to be let out near the outer edges.  Frankly, walking is faster and far more enjoyable.  Our hosts were surprised but they did as we asked.

It might be a place to mention that pedestrians get NO consideration, anywhere.  Crosswalks mean nothing.  You cross when you can, dodging through streams of traffic.  If there are enough people crossing, a critical mass, as it were, I have seen vehicles stop.  Apparently the only alternative to mowing down a whole group of people.  It does take a leap of faith to believe it will happen, though.  I will say that if you walk in a consistent direction and at a steady, predictable speed, motorbikes will weave around you.  They usually aren't going that fast, but....

I've learned to interpret the horn as a demand to move.  Vehicles have priority. It's a common attitude, even in our own cities, where drivers regularly curse cyclists and where certain civic officials have suggested getting rid of bike lanes.  It's not an attitude that seems to be changing very fast.