Sunday, November 22, 2009

NZ - South Island - Fiordland National Park

New Zealand – South Island – Fiordland National Park

We arrived in Fiordland later in the afternoon. Weather had been getting more cloudy as the day progressed and we learned that MetService was forecasting a major downpour starting later in the night. We decided to camp and see what the weather was going to do.

It was a windy night but no rain. There was even some blue sky visible in the morning. We got up early and headed for Milford Sound. The scenery got progressively more scenic and spectacular as we went; unfortunately the rain started and got harder as well. We were able to see enough of the mountains to get some of a feel for how spectacular this place is. Huge cliffs with dozens and dozens of waterfalls pouring off them. There was also a single-lane1.2 km tunnel that was started in the 1930s and not completed until the 1950s. The rain, however, continued. This area apparently gets over 8000 mm of rain each year – that’s 8 meters of water. Maybe I should have brought my snorkel! Weather systems blow in from the Tasman Sea, hit these mountains and dump water for over 200 days of rain each year.

By early afternoon, things were looking a bit brighter. Once we could see Milford Sound well enough for a few pictures, we headed back up the road towards the tunnel and the south Milford Road. Bits of blue sky appeared. We were amazed at the number of waterfalls coming down from precipitous cliffs on each side of the road. Fantastic waterfalls just pouring with water after the rain and with melting snow up higher.

After enjoying the views as we progressed down the valley, we found another DOC campground and settled in for the night. It was a cute little place by a stream with good views of mountains up and down the valley.

In the morning, it was still raining. That had started during the night. We took the opportunity to sleep in. Hoping that the clouds would life, we drove back up to the start of the Routeburn Track, which we planned to hike some of today. We hiked for 4 ½ hours but the skies did not clear even once. The hike in the forest was nice, there was the sound of running water everywhere and we passed one of the huts that trampers use on this Track, but there were no views. Not one.

The next morning, Sunday, we woke to clearing skies so we went back and walked yesterday’s trails again. Skies cleared, blue appeared and views were great in all directions. We also hiked the rough trail to Marian Lake, nestled in a cirque surrounded by towering peaks.

One final night camping here and we’re off for the south coast and back up along the east coast – the Catlins, Dunedin, Christchurch….

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